walking to empty

getting ready to start my a keep with a few dogs come jan. already got my spring pole set up looking at a jenny and mill and have my vitamin ordered only have one problem. before this year i lived in town where i had more then enough room to get out and walk the dogs before working them to empty out but with lil room to work the dogs( small town everyone likes to talk and i didnt enjoy explaining why i had spring pole, flirt pole etc to everyone that seen me) so now i have moved out where i dont have neighbors, i now have a good size yard to work the dogs only now i have this new problem. i live right off an old highway that shockingly enough has more traffic then i thought before moving in. on top of this there are no roads turning off this highway near by my house. so im faced with the problem of not being about to walk the dogs with out first traveling in a car.

so my question is has anyone else ever faced this problem and if so how did you handle it?

i have thought of setting up an area something like a 10x10 area just for emptying out or a chain spot? any suggestions will be useful. thanks

 

get a straw , long match stick, long q-tip etc put it where the sun dont shine & take a walk.

 

just walk the dog it can be that diffecault lolll
you can walk up and down your livingroom haha make a dance in it and the dog gets a little exersize more haha :p:p

and why dont explain to people ?? educate is more better than keep people stupid and on 1 level. just be smart

 

a fella I know say he use laseick not sure the corect spelling tho. it's a medication that will get the piss flowing no problem. just do your research on supplements before you use anything ok.

 

be very careful using lasix. Dose it wrong and your gyp will dehydrate quickly...

 

teach them to go on que. not that hard.

 

I would not advise anyone to use lasix to empty out during a keep. Maybe to dry out before show, but not on the day to day portion. Also if you use it make sure you give correct dose or you will severely dehydrate your animal

 

i have no near by neighbors fields on boths sides but they are both grown up and the owner lives in view. dont care to just go out on someone else land. plus they hunt somewhere out behind my place. really would be bad to run up on some while they are hunting

 

thanks for all suggestions. ill look into this more.

 

When I simply walk my dog it takes him quite some time to empty. But if there is some light activity involved, things speed up. Not something that would attract his attention because then he will 'keep" himself instead of "relaxing" but something like me encouraging him to pull his leash. This way always works for me within 5 minutes, I take him out to empty during his early morning first of the day walk, right before I leave for work when I am in a hurry, after years I found this works best for me and my dog.

 

Pick a convenient spot that you can keep clean easily and walk to in less than a minute or so.
Have a few pieces of hotdog or kibble in your pocket.
If the dog is house-trained keep it in the house a bit.
If not house trained, start this training right after you feed and water.
Walk the dog over to the general area where you want it to empty.
When it does, give a piece of hot dog and make a slightly big deal.
If it doesn't empty right away, just walk in circle right there for a few minutes until it does.
Decide on a command to use every time the dog empties; "hurry up," "go pee go poo" "do the doo", whatever works for you.
With a few days of hot dogs and consistent reinforcement of the behavior the dog will get it.
A few tips.
You might want to take trowel full of dirt the dog's peed on, and a bit of shit to the spot.

If you're emptying out for mill work, take the dog over to the spot as usual, let it empty, put the dog on the mill, after about three-four minutes take the dog back to the spot to empty again, then take the dog back to the mill/spring for the real workout. The running usually starts the dog's system working, and that break helps keep the dog from running full out from a cold start.
Actually, I find that the pre-mill walk is more about "warming up" the dog than emptying out. Winters here are brutal so some days the mill is the walk. Plus the spring-pole is indoors on carpet during the winter, so with the spot training the dogs know what to do when they get there without any hassle.
If you keep the spot clean the dogs will use it no problem. Let it pile up with shit and they start avoiding it-bitches especially appreciate a clean spot. Plus, if you're so inclined you can hammer a wooden fence pole or into the ground a few feet apart for the males to piss on. Sometimes they save urine to mark, and taking them from one pole to the next, or one tree to the next bush or the rock, or whatever you have in your environment that's markable usually allows them to empty out fully.

After your mill work is done, back to the spot.
This is why I suggest you pick a place that you can walk to in about a minute or less.
The walk is short enough to be convenient, long enough to get the dog's system working.
Anyway, this system has worked for me for years,...hope it helps. A pooper-scooper and a small bucket with a plastic bag in it and a lid over it is all you really need to keep clean.

 

Put up a cable run or 2 Widerange. Rotate dogs on it. The smells from the other dogs prior will usually start a pissing contest.

 

Cant beat the big long q-tip its a tried and tested method,as for peeing most dgs do it as soon as they are outside,sniff sniff pisss sniff sniff pisss

 

my dogs are outside dogs.

 

i actually have two 50ft cable setups that i started using just this way today. ill let you know how it works out for me.

 

Wiping shit out from between the slats of a good treadmill is no fun. And once one dog uses your mill as a toilet, there's a good chance the lingering odor (that you might not notice) may invite other accidents or pissing contests on your equipment.

If the dogs are outside, what's the difference between shitting on their chainspot and shitting on a cable? Sure, a pissing contest will ensue, but the main point of the empty out walk -besides warming the dog up-is to empty his bowels as well as his bladder when you need him to.

If you are willing to wait until the dog decides to shit on his own, then just get a chair, sit by the cable run/chain-spot he's already on, wait till he shits, then start your work-out.

Or, you can take a few days to teach the dog to shit when and where you want it to on command; or get a good supply of those long q-tips as Oldtymer suggested.

Pick a spot. Take dog to spot. Say "dog shit!" Praise dog for shitting on spot. Take the dog to mill for a couple minutes. Take dog back to spot-if it shits or pisses some more great, if not, it's probably empty enough to work for your first 15 minute stretch.

A few days consistet reinforcement with the dog teaches the dog that when he starts heading to that spot, he starts getting ready to relieve himself. That's why you pick the same convenient spot, and keep it clean. After a couple of days, you won't have to give a command, but doing so helps you keep a little more control of your workout schedule. After a few days the dog realizes that going to the spot means workout comes next and gets his mind in gear.

Dogs are creatures of habit and ritual. If you don't want to go through the ritual of walk then workout, try another ritual that will get your dog doing what you want it to do when you want it to do it. Whatever you decide to do, if you aren't going to be doing the long walk as suggested in the keep, don't forget to take the dog off the mill after the first few minutes and give it a chance to empty out a second time.

If the cable run method works better for you, take a flirt-pole or something along and get him moving on the cable. The movement will get the process flowing, if not, the dog is just likely to take a good piss then jog around looking at the sights for a while and digging a new hole. Reinforce the point that the cable run is for unloading only, not lazing around.

 

well as promised im here to let you know how the shain spots for empting are working. i set up a ground runner. 50ft long with a 10ft chain connected with a pulley. the spot for emptying was set up just close enought the the out fence so that the dogs can reach to piss on close bushes to the outside of it but not get over(thought the bushes may speed things up) after a few days and some q tips things are working great. i work the dogs shortly around the yard, hook them to the chain they walk for min. empty and then take a short walk back around the yard just to make sure the blood is flowing good. since they are not in keep right now i put them on a spring pole or flirt pole for a few mins just hoping that works as a reward for now and gets things started in the right direction for when they are in a keep. thanks for all that helped and gave info.