yard set ups

jack is a fake

 

aww shit here we go again.....lol

 

That is a nice chain setup. That is the way I do mine, minus the swivel at the axle. Just going to wear out faster dragging through the dirt. I use quick links everywhere, and just hit them with a hammer on the screw part. It makes it hard to screw so it won't back off. Nice setup though.

 

That slink will not hold up to the constant pounding of a very active dog. I typically use a c-clamp and loop the chain. Slide that around the axel and then bury it.

 

I wanted a custom built barn with runs this is what I wanted on the inside what do you think ?

 

I think that would work very well.

 

S-link, and quick links are are garbage. Cold shuts with a tack weld on the back are ideal, and the only swivel I will ever use are the one's from blackout...those are the best I've ever come across.

 

can you post one bro?? ive never seen em...

 

wow this by far is the dumbest shit i heard in awhile lol. Have a couple BAD yard accidents or hell even one BAD one and you will wanna slap this guy for giving out info like this. SMH

 

Lol i have to agree with you on that one hnelson some people really think there the sharpest crayon in the box!!!!!!!why waste the time to even show the diagram on this garbage !!!

 

I'm really surprised to see the lack of quality in some peoples yards like o stevens yard on youtube

 

I don't like the ring on the collar. If the dog is as active as mine it will get blisters and make they're neck nasty from pinching. I make my own rings for my axes out of the flat bar you use to fasten chain link (yes I weld galvanized, and I know. Don't breathe it! ). I former it around the chain link before welding. I also make my own swivels with a ring, a 7/8" nut and bolt, and a 1" nut. Then I grind down one end of the last link of the chain and weld the nut end to it. From here I use a large c clip to fasten to the factory ring on the collar. I use one 2"+ collar and have never had a problem. I have tried every other method and this is the only fool proof way I know. I have a 16x8 bilevel kennel for whelping so the mom can get a break. Also, I agree with everyone that dislikes the buried chain. I want to know what it looks like from end to end. Lastly, I think a point needs to be made about chain safety. Never put a dog on any raised surface that doesn't have three sides and a top, no porches, and make sure their nose can barely reach any fence around and position the house so their nose only reaches 2/3 of the way (just enough to turn their body around) so they don't go over. It doesn't matter if the chain will touch the ground, links hang. I had one that went over his house and got hung but he slipped out of the collar. A lesser of evils and why I have a fence around my dogs separating them from the rest of my yard and animals and I make sure they could slip off if they needed to. My dogs won't turn so they don't slip out from aggression

 

... and I agree

 

Re: yard set ups - find the cold shut

Which of these represents the cold shut that people refer to? Some people say a C-clamp (pic D) isn't good, but others say if you hammer or weld, it will work fine. Some people like a lap-link (pic A). A true cold shut is (pic B).

Pic from webriggingsupply

 

I prefer the B option on that diagram I have never had one fail on me. I've had those dumb ass quick links fail though when I was first starting out n I'll never use one again. Guess I should mention that I put a solid little weld on the backside of the cold shut just for added insurance at least on some, but I've never had them fail if hammered shut properly either way.

 

to hell with quicklinks they suck! this is the way to go......

 

i also spotweld the laplinks for peice of mind, but you dont really need to.....cold shuts are good too, but expensive... and if you can weld, theyre not breakin shit.....

 

Re: yard set ups - find the cold shut

If i ever type the word cold shut, "B" is what I'm referring to.

 

Hi AGK, that is what I thought.

From the website: WebRiggingSupply Chain Fittings

Comparing 3/8 thickness strengths:
A. (laplink) = 1500 pounds. $.88 per piece
B. (cold shut) = 1900 pounds. $.79 per piece
C. (grade 80 link) = 7100 pounds. $11.95 per piece
D. (quick connect zinc plate) = 1980 pounds. $2.05 per piece
D. (quick connect stainless) = 3500 pounds. $13.93 per piece

So it seems that any of them (A-D) are strong enough provided that they don't unscrew (which is more likely with D).

I have seen these on playground chains: Apex Stainless Inc.-Stainless Connecting Link(661S)
3/8 inch has capacity of 3500 pounds and costs $4.25.

 

a=laplink b=cold shut d=quicklink e. quicksnap and C...... well... i dunno what the hell C is....but it damn sure dont look like it has any place on a chainspot anyways LOL