A well designed whelping box (pictures w/ dog & my son)

A well designed whelping box (pictures w/ dog & my son)

I would downsize this for APBT...to 3' x 3'. Also, the pig rails for APBT could be 2x4's instead of 4x4s as the APBT are generally much lighter.

__________________

This box is 4 feet wide by 4 feet long and 32" tall (just under 30" tall on the inside). This size large enough for mastiff type dogs to have their pups in, but still small enough they can heat it up well during cold weather. It is made out of 3/4" pressure treated plywood, 2x4's and 4x4's. No nails. Screws and bolts only...built to last. I will mention a few things above various photos so those interested in making a box can take note of some things that should be considered...



The two stage steps make it is easier to get back in than it is to get out. This is done to be sure that once the pups are big enough to get out, they are able to get back in. The lower step is a 4 x 6 and the upper step is a 4x4. Screwed from the inside. Also notice the heavy duty hinges.



The top of the house is supported by 4 runners underneath. The reason for this is so mom can get time away from the nursing pups as they become more demanding. By placing the 2x4 roof supports on the top of the box walls...I built in 1 & 1/2" (a 2x4 is not a full 2" deep) of ventilation around the sides of the whelping box. The front and back are not vented as I placed the 2x4s even with the front and back. This helps the house vent during hot weather without propping the lid open (although this house is under protective covering)...which can be nice during rainy summer days. I don't like the lid to stick out past the house, as that creates an edge that many dogs will chew on.



Also notice the doorway has 2x4 on the edge of the door cut out of the 3/4" plywood. This prevents mom or pups from chewing on the sides of the doorway by making it wide enough that it isn't "mouth friendly" in size. Toss in a nylabone or something and they will tend to favor it over the door. I used to not do this, and doors would mysteriously grow larger in time.



"Pup/pig rails" provide a safe zone for pups to get under when a tired mother is sleeping (so they don't get rolled on). Many whelping boxes use 2x4's but do not like to use 2x4's because I fear the 2x4 wanting to roll down by not offering enough 2 width to support the weight of the mother should she step on the rail. The wider 4x4 allows the screws for attachment to be offset (more on the upper edge) so the board doesn't want to roll down should mother step on it. I could jump on these and they aren't going anywhere.



Wheels because it weighs about 200# and needs to be cleaned regularly (including underneath). The floor has a LOT of 5/16" holes drilled into it for drainage (probably 50 but they are not visible in the photos). This smaller hole prevents the puppies from getting their feet stuck in a hole, but allows water to drain out during cleaning.Also notice the bottom of the floor is elevated about 2" from the bottom edge so I have room for the 2x4's and also allows for the house to sit close to the ground once the wheels are attached. I don't want the pups to be able to get under the house, but neither do I want the house directly on the ground (promoting bacteria growth). I have about 3/4" clearance under the house.



Prop up board attached with a henge to prevent it from getting knocked out of position. This provides a "3rd hand" while managing the pups, cleaning the box, or to increase ventilation should it be hot out or need to dry out after cleaning. Also notice the small plywood support that catches this prop board when it is in the down position.





Notice the "slip stop" on the roof for the prop up board.



The bottom of the door is 1/8" above the top of the 4x4 pup/pig rail. The purpose for this is so the edge is smooth enough that the doorway is comfortable for the mother (or when in use as a dog house) for the mother or dog to look out...PLUS it prevents the nipples of a nursing mother from being drug across a sharp edge of plywood. The reason I don't do it even with the top of the pig rail, but is 1/8" above the puppy/pig rail is so the little toe nails of the pups can hook onto the door to help pull themselves back in.

 

Re: A well designed whelping box (pictures w/ dog & my son)

Cool post. Thanks for the info.

 

Re: A well designed whelping box (pictures w/ dog & my son)

Nice!!..that's a bigass Whelping box!!

 

Re: A well designed whelping box (pictures w/ dog & my son)

Here is a house more suitable for most APBT that are not being bred. I am sure many here have seen something like this, but never the less it may be helpful to some.

 

Re: A well designed whelping box (pictures w/ dog & my son)

nice,very nice.Very profesional job

 

Re: A well designed whelping box (pictures w/ dog & my son)

Thats nice right there!Im about to build one so that flip top will be added to mine.Them 2 4 for safety works well ive seen it done before.Thanks for the post.
Anyone got one built with a drain for washing for when they start making a mess?

 

Re: A well designed whelping box (pictures w/ dog & my son)

Outrightmike. This one actually has a bunch of 5/16" holes drilled into the floor (about 50) for drainage. The holes are just small enough that they are difficult to see in the picture. I wanted them small enough that the puppies feet wouldn't get stuck in the holes.

 

Re: A well designed whelping box (pictures w/ dog & my son)

That's very nice man.

 

Re: A well designed whelping box (pictures w/ dog & my son)

thats a huge box!!! i like that lid though. and those 2 bys really help to keep the door the same size huh?

 

Re: A well designed whelping box (pictures w/ dog & my son)

2x's to toothpicks for some of them around here.

 

Re: A well designed whelping box (pictures w/ dog & my son)

Nice stuff...

 

Re: A well designed whelping box (pictures w/ dog & my son)

nice box man