Raw feeding Pups

Has anyone here fed newly weaned pups raw ?
What did you feed
i was thinking ground chicken and brown rice

 

I have found its easier to feed kibble til they they can crush bone on their own.

 

chicken wings, ground meat, tripe, liver, hearts and gizzards.

 

You shouldnt feed muscle meat without some type of bone or added calcium. Look in your area for premixed raw or ween em on Natures Variety raw. Better yet..get yourself a meat grinder that does bone!

 

In my experience, pups, once on raw tend to not want to go back to kibble. I even had a situation where there was real chicken inside the puppys kibble, she would eat all the meat and leave the kibble alone.

 

as 21 dre said when feeding only raw they tend not to want kibble so i alway add some kibble to their raw! but for young pups i grind everything down real fine veggies fruits i like to add a few scoops of mother puppy milk replacement and a very lil lard! i like my new born pups on the rollie pollie side keep the up on their vac's and on a natural dewormer! I also give table spoon of garlic! raw is mostly beef/and chicken if my local butcher has some duck or turkey deals i'll add that two the mix i also get femer bone cut up and give them those and they love them! That also get the used to them when they begain teething

 

start them on whole raw chicken wings

this link helps calculate the weekly diet / nutrition for raw fed dogs
http://dogsfirst.ie/?page_id=8838

here is a good article referring to raw diet
Natural Diet:
Don't "Just Do It"
By Christie Keith

Natural diet is a feeding plan formulated to mimic or reproduce the diet on which a species evolved. There are many recipes and feeding plans that are based on this approach to feeding pet dogs and cats, and several, including those by vets Richard Pitcairn and Ian Billinghurst, are extremely popular among holistically oriented pet owners.

But many people have adopted a diet that is considerably more casual than that - a diet I call the "whatever" diet.
The "whatever" diet is a thrown-together diet loosely based on a recipe or feeding plan that someone else came up with, with whatever variations appeal to the pet owner. The justification for this diet is usually something like, "Dogs and cats thrived for centuries on the leftovers of their owners' diets and what they could hunt up or scavenge on the farm. We don't need a degree in nutrition to feed ourselves; why have we let the pet food companies scare us into thinking you need one to feed your pets?"
There is of course some truth in that. But there are also some misconceptions.

In today's world, it's not safe to let your dogs and cats hunt and scavenge for themselves. What we feed them is what they get, and unlike us, they can't satisfy a sudden craving for some broccoli with a quick trip to the market. Day after day, for their entire lives, they make do on what we put in their bowls. Those dogs and cats in the "good old days" caught rodents, raided henhouses, ate dead animals in the forest, raided compost heaps, gardens, and grain stores, and in general, had many opportunities to fill the nutritional gaps left by their owners.

Dogs have a somewhat less specific need for certain nutrients, but felines have a very narrow range of nutritional need. In both cases, the most crucial balance is the calcium/phosphorus ratio, with accompanying levels of certain vitamins and minerals that allow the body to utilize those nutrients. If that ratio is not right, the dog and cat will leech calcium from their very bones, in a condition that can be fatal and irreversible.

The common practice of feeding meat without bones (or bone meal) is nutritionally disastrous for dogs and cats. The correct proportion of meat to bones or bone meal is also poorly understood by many people, and their reliance on recommendations made by people who themselves don't know what they are doing makes the problem worse.

A homemade diet can be the best or the worst thing you can feed your pet. If you are going to feed homemade, do it right. Use a recipe or feeding plan based on sound nutritional principles, which has been used by many people over a long period of time. I faithfully weighed and measured every bite I gave my dogs and cats for over ten years before I felt comfortable enough modifying their diets. For cats I still feel best feeding a very precise recipe.

Most feeding plans, whether Wendy Volhard's or Billinghurst's or Pitcairn's, are designed with a certain amount of variety and flexibility in them. It's best to adhere to the diet as written, rather than using it as a loose guide, as so many folks do. This way, you will cover the bases nutritionally.

I got an email some time ago from someone whose had one kitten die and another who was near death, from feeding a diet based on a recipe she had picked up off someone's web site. She couldn't find the bone meal the recipe called for in the store, so she left it out. When I looked at the diet, I saw that it said "optional" before listing the supplements. "Supplements" can indeed be "optional," but bone meal in a recipe is NOT a supplement; it is part of the diet itself.

There are far too many people giving eggs and meat to their pets without providing a balance to all the phosphorus they contain. Meat contains no calcium, and lots of phosphorus; bones contain lots of calcium. Eggs contain lots of phosphorus; the shells contain calcium. That is nature's balance. If we feed meat without bones or eggs without shells, or aren't sure of the correct ratios of those things to feed, we must use something to replace them. It is a common and tragic mistake to give a diet far too high in phosphorus to cats and dogs. (This is also common in human diets in the developed world, and a virtual epidemic of bone disease is the result, particularly in women, whose requirements for calcium are both greater and more specific than for men.)

Another common mistake is adding dairy to the food to provide calcium. While dairy products can be a good source of calcium, in general they contain phosphorus also. While they themselves are usually balanced (excluding cottage cheese, which is high in phosphorus), this means they don't have enough calcium in them to balance the phosphorus in the meat, too. Even an animal (or human) getting abundant calcium in their diet cannot use it if the phosphorus and other ratios are incorrect. This is not something your pet can fix for themselves; it is the owner's responsibility to know what they are doing.

If you cannot follow a tested recipe, it would be better to use a commercial diet. Don't make your dog or cat the victim of your own ignorance or carelessness. It's one thing to make that mistake on yourself; you, after all, can be overwhelmed with a need for a big green salad and go out and get one. Your cat and dog can't do that. There are some raw commercial diets to which you can add your own fresh, raw foods, such as Grandad's Pet Foods or Natural Diet Foundation from Wendy Volhard, or prepared raw foods diets such as Aunt Jeni's Home Made 4 Life. These are alternatives for those who don't with to prepare foods themselves, but would like the benefits of a fresh, home-prepared diet. There are also freeze-dried diets such as Archetype from Wysong, made with raw ingredients but packaged like a kibble. (I have no commercial interest in any of these companies, and am just mentioning them as a resource.)

I have fed homemade since 1986, and I know that sometimes it can be difficult. Pitcairn has several simple recipes in his book Dr. Pitcairn's Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs and Cats, including some that are quick and basic, for occasional feeding. He has others that are meant to supplement a commercial diet, and some very simple recipes that can be fed every day. Take your responsibilities seriously, and follow the recipes. If you adopt a feeding plan such as Billinghurst's Give Your Dog a Bone, READ THE WHOLE BOOK, not just someone's summary of it on an email list, message board, or the web. Understand the details of what he is advocating, not just the general idea.

Canine and feline diets, like those of all predatory carnivores, are among nature's most precise and specific diets. Big cats and canids die and become ill in captivity all over the world, because their keepers cannot get their diets right. Don't make your cats and dogs the victims of the same problem. Unlike those trying to raise an endangered rare wild cat in captivity, we DO know what comprises a balanced diet for our cats and dogs. Don't turn your back on that information. Use it.

 

Shit, if you been eating real food all your life then someone tries to make you eat some nasty dehydrated food pellets, would you be happy about it? Lmao

Just grind up what you would normally feed an adult is what I've seen folks do. Then it's just as if the mother had regurgitated for the pups.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using Tapatalk 2

 

that the idea is to make as if the mom has just reguritated and add a lil kibble! i also give them a nice size cut of hide as if their mother has return from hunting with it and they can chew shake play tug of war with it! and they grow up loving to work any and everything for some hide! u hit the nail on the head cliffdog!

 

Your saying it like its a bad thing!! LOL

 

It can be if that raw feed bill don't agree with your wallet. That's why kibble was thought oof...cheap and quick, not 100% good but quicker just the same in many cases.

 

(directed to you Dre but in this general situation)
IMO/experience... They r dogs, instinct based, if all they got to eat is kibble they ain't gonna starve. My wife ran into this with the racing hounds, lots of them are fed raw, then when retired they are put on low grade kibble and are like WTF, but they come around.

 

I've raised pups on raw food, with no problem at all. Matter of fact, my pups look better than the majority of pups that I see...that are fed those high end brands. All my pups do really well on a diet of chicken backs & necks in the morning. I feed them muscle meat like breast, thighs & drums in the evening. Alternating to fish once a week. Chicken backs & necks are soft bones, which pose no threat of tooth breakage and such. I wait until they get a little older to incorporate red meat into their diets, due to high fat contents. Chicken is more suitable for pups, being easily digestible...especially in the weaning stages. Grains & fruits isn't needed, but if you do I'd keep it at a minimal. Meat & bone are what really counts. A good ratio is 65:35(meat:bone), but you can always flux when stool becomes loose...just add more bone matter to the diet.

 

Kibble was made for convenience...not nutrition!

 

I have weaned plenty of litters onto raw over the past 3 decades. Whoever stated above about instinct is on the right path. Just like the wolves in the wild, mothers (there are always exceptions of course) will eat first and then go back to pups...regurgitate (vomit) and the pups go to town...just like in the wild.

I have had 8 week old pups eat whole chicken legs and wings, etc. You'd be surprised how capable they are of crushing bone at such an early age...some even swallow it whole. It is also perfectly normal for them to regurgitate, swallow it down again, regurgitate again, etc. Pups and Adult dogs will do this and it is a normal behavior...seems strange to us, but normal for them. Read up on canine digestion and eating behaviors...wolves, etc.

Always, observe and watch pups and adults...they can choke (it has happened), but it can happen with kibble also. Just don't react unless they look like they are going to pass out and fall over...usually they will throw it up before that happens and then they will gobble it up faster than you can react. Good Luck!

~Mr Mark

 

Thanks for ALL of your input

 

Some local markets if you ask them to grind up chicken with bone, they will do it for free.

 

I use to raise and train working line German Shepherds. I fed all my pups on raw. I started them off on chicken backs smashed up.