Fruits and veggies

Which fruits and veggies are good to give? Also to give

 

10 foods dogs should never eat
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As a dog owner, we all want what's best for our dog. With the newest reports about the proper diet for your dog, they should have carbohydrates, vegetables, etc., more and more dog owners are giving their dog table scraps without realizing that there are certain foods a dog should never have. Before you put your left-overs in your dog's bowl be sure to read the top ten foods they shouldn't eat.
1. Chocolate - To dogs, chocolate acts as a stimulant, making your dog's heartbeat accelerate or beat irregularly, leading to seizures and even cardiac arrest. To compound things further, it also acts as a severe diuretic, causing frequent urination, vomiting, and/or diarrhea. If you even suspect your dog has consumed chocolate, take him to an animal hospital immediately.
2. Grapes and Raisins - Grapes and raisins create havoc with your dog's kidneys and digestive system. What's worse is that the amount of grapes needed to cause problems can vary greatly among individual dogs. Symptoms include frequent urination, vomiting, and diarrhea.
3. Onions - Onions cause the breakdown of a dog's red blood cells, which deprives his cells of much-needed oxygen. If you're in the habit of feeding your dog table scraps, make sure the dish was not prepared with onions, as the effects can be cumulative over a period of time. Symptoms can vary greatly, ranging from vomiting and diarrhea to loss of appetite, fever, or exhaustion.
4. Macadamia Nuts - While the exact chemical compound is still unknown, even a small amount of macadamia nuts can cause fever, irregular heartbeat, seizures, or mild paralysis.
5. Alcoholic Beverages - Dogs' physiologies are not equipped to handle alcohol consumption. They are extremely susceptible to alcohol poisoning, and even small amounts can lead to digestive problems or even death.
6. Bread Dough - Because it is soft, dogs will often swallow the dough without chewing it. When the dough hits your dog's stomach, his body heat will cause the dough to rise inside his stomach. This rising action can cause bloating or vomiting. To compound things further, the rising action creates alcohol as a by-product, and your dog may experience the symptoms listed in the previous paragraph.
7. Caffeinated Beverages - Similar to the effects of chocolate, caffeine is a stimulant and can negatively impact your dog's heart rate, causing seizures or heart attacks.
8. Avocadoes- Avocadoes are toxic to many animals. The offensive chemical damages heart, lung, and other essential tissues. Be aware since guacamole's main ingredient is avocado, that you keep any such dips well out of your dog's reach.
9. Pitted Fruits - (Peaches, Pears, Cherries, and Apricots) The pits of these fruits contain small doses of cyanide, which can be fatal to smaller dogs. Also, if the pit is swallowed whole, it may become lodged in the intestinal tract, where the blockage will have to be surgically removed.
10. Raw Fish - Raw fish, especially salmon, can contain parasites, usually fluke larvae. The dog consumes the fish, and the larvae hatch in your dog's digestive tract, attaching themselves to his intestinal walls. Symptoms can take up to a week to exhibit and usually mimic other canine diseases, such as distemper or parvovirus. The hazard here is misdiagnosis by the veterinarian, leading to an improper or ineffective treatment. If you choose to feed your dog fish, be sure to cook it thoroughly to kill any bad critters that could be hiding inside."


This is beyond veggies but good info

 

so how about strawberries and bannas apples?

 

They are fine if given in moderation. Most veggies are ok just be careful of fruit pits and grapes.

 

8. Avocadoes- Avocadoes are toxic to many animals. The offensive chemical damages heart, lung, and other essential tissues. Be aware since guacamole's main ingredient is avocado, that you keep any such dips well out of your dog's reach.

There is a food called Avoderm that is made with Avocado as a main ingredient. .

I saw this and thought it was strange because I have seen first hand how sick avacado can make a dog. What do you think is the deal with that?

 

I give my dog apples 2-3 times a week. They contain niacin which is a b vitamin helps turn food into energy also good for the stomach.

 

http://www.dogage.com/care/facts.aspx/FF/40

 

Thanks everyone

 

I guess the ASPCA is good for somethings

Though many dogs love avocados, words of warning are posted on the ASPCA Web page regarding the dangers of this popular fruit. While the oil from an avocado is known to give a pup a shiny coat, pet owners must be kept up to date on any sinister side effects.
Both the ASPCA and APCC (Animal Poison Control Center) have listed that persin, an element in avocados, is known to be toxic to pets. They note it can damage tissue in animals, including, but not limited to, the lungs and heart. Additionally, the high fatty content in avocados can physically provoke severe stomach problems, vomiting, or even worse, pancreatitis.
A number of Fallbrook residents have avocado trees on their property and generally see their canines munch on avocados without experiencing any detrimental results. Inevitably, reading the above information can be quite startling. With that said, we contacted three pet professionals in North County to give their opinions on the subject and shed more light on the issue.
“The biggest concern is when dogs eat avocados they can sometimes consume the seed, and if it is not vomited up on their own, you have to go in and remove it out of their stomach,” said Dr. Charlie Steiner, DVM, at Avocado Animal Hospital. As for persin being a major factor, Steiner really has not seen that component being a problem. His viewpoint is that an obstruction is a bigger concern than persin.
Steiner vocalized that it is best to keep dogs away from avocados because of the weight issue as well. “Many of these dogs become very obese. It can help their hair coat quality, but they become grossly obese.”
On the flip side, Thom Somes, owner and operator of Pet Tech, believes in strictly following the ASPCA guidelines regarding persin in avocados, which has been known to cause gastrointestinal problems. “We stick with what they [the ASPCA] say on their Web site,” he said.
Like Steiner, Somes sees the danger posed by the avocado seed, noting that there should be a choking caution for this fruit. He has had people in his Pet First Aid Class whose dogs like to tear the fruit apart. When dogs get down to the seed, those canine eyes see the round object as a toy.
“Lo and behold, what’s inside an avocado is a ball – this is a dog’s perception,” explained Somes. He has known pet owners whose dogs have choked on avocado seeds, while others have swallowed parts of the seed, causing blockage in the intestinal tract.
“Not only is there a chemical danger with avocados as far as our cats and dogs are concerned,” he said, “but the physical object itself [the seed] is a danger.”
In the cases of pet owners whose dogs nibble on avocados on a regular basis with no adverse side-effects, Somes asserts that these owners are quite lucky. He explained that the reason for this could be that the toxic process of persin might be less rapid.
“There could be a low level of poisonous buildup inside the pet as they are eating avocados,” he warned. “Just as a precaution, it’s still best to keep your pet away from [avocados].”
In Vista, Dr. John Abella at Aloha Animal Hospital has many four-legged patients living in avocado country.
“In our vicinity there are a lot of dogs in avocado groves, and for the most part it appears not to be clinically significant as far as toxicity,” he said. “It definitely adds fat content to their diet. A lot of dogs do love them, but they do gain weight.”
Abella is well aware of the known toxicities in all parts of the avocado but asserts that specialists are still unsure how the toxic element actually works and the physiology behind it.
“We really don’t know the toxic dose,” he said, explaining that persin is a fatty acid derivative whose biochemical organic chemistry can cause a certain type of reaction.
Abella has surgically addressed avocado seed problems in his practice. “One thing I have definitely done is taken avocado pits out of dogs,” he said. “Avocados end up being more of a foreign body issue than a toxin issue.”
Although these pet professionals might have various versions in their pet health theories, they all agree that some type of warning is appropriate for avocados.
For more information regarding avocados and pets, log on to www.aspca.org.

 

This article seems to say that dogs don't need fruits and veggies







RAW FEEDING 101
By Bill Carnes
carnesw@bellsouth.net



I get questions all the time about how to begin feeding their dog a raw diet. I can only give what worked for me in the past with my dogs.

What is raw feeding and how do I know what to feed my dog?
My mantra about raw feeding is to look to nature. What would my dog eat if he was living in the wild? The answer to that is he would eat any animal he could catch and kill. So the answer to what to feed is raw meat, bones, and organs from a variety of animals. Feed mostly meat, some bone, and some organs. The exact ratio isn't critical.

What about fruits & veggies?
A lot of people feed their dogs veggies but if you look to nature, you will see that your dog wouldn't eat veggies in any measurable amounts. He might eat a few berries or maybe some grass but certainly not zucchini, carrots, potatoes or any of the veggies that many people feed. Also you must know that all the cells in all vegetable matter is covered by a think layer of cellulose. This cellulose must be crushed during the eating process in order for the nutrients in the vegetables to be available for digestion. This is called bioavailablity. The nutrients in vegetable matter is not bioavailable to our dogs because they don't have the flat molar teeth that plant eating animals do. Humans, for example, have flat molars for crushing cellulose during chewing. Dogs molars are called carnassal teeth and are not flat but work like scissors to rip and tear meat and crush bones. So, by looking at your dog's teeth, you can tell that veggies just are not appropriate food for them. The vegetable material doesn't harm your dog, but it does them no good either. Giving carrot treats occasionally doesn't hurt. Just make sure that you don't feed enough veggies to interfere with the amount of meat, bones, and organs your dog eats.

How do I begin?
First off, you want to begin with one meat source until your dog gets used to digesting meat. I suggest chicken, specifically chicken backs only for the first week. Chicken meat is easily digested and the bones are soft and pliable. The second week, I suggest chicken backs in the morning and chicken quarters in the evening. The third week I think it would be good to alternate chicken quarters with turkey necks in the evening, sticking with chicken backs in the morning. So one evening you would feed chicken quarters, the next evening it would be turkey necks, then quarters again then necks, etc. After a week of that, add another meat. I suggest pork. One pork meal that week. The next week add one meal of fish. I use canned salmon or mackerel but raw fish will work just fine. Feed with bones and organs still attached if you can get that. I feed one fish meal every week for the omega 3 fatty acids for good bright shiny coats. Then next week, try something in place of the pork, maybe lamb or beef. So, after a few weeks you will be feeding most any meat available. After a month or so of feeding raw, you can add organ meat. You don't feed a meal of organs, just add some organ meat to one or 2 meals a week. Not a lot of organ meat as they are rich and can cause runny stools. Now let's put it all together and look at the diet I feed my dogs after the introduction period. Every morning they get chicken backs. The evening meals are alternated between chicken quarters and turkey necks. One of those evening meals will be fish + organs + a raw egg (shell and all) + anything else I may have left over in the fridge. One other night during the week is for "something else". I may feed a pork roast or pork ribs or pork shoulder. It may be beef, or lamb. Just something other than chicken, turkey, or fish. That's it. I keep it as simple as possible. The more you complicate it, the more complicated it becomes. Expect your dog to have runny stools for a few days to a couple of weeks in the beginning. Its part of the process of learning how to digest meat and is normal. Some dogs don't get runny stools at all, others last for a couple of weeks.

What organs do I feed?
Liver is the most important and should be at least half of the organs fed. Any kind of liver will do. Chicken, beef, pork, lamb, any of them. A variety is best over time. Kidney is the next most nutritious organ to feed. Also lung and pancreas. Heart is not an organ but a muscle and is good to feed too. Gizzard is also a muscle.

How much do I feed my adult dog?
Each dog is different and that's impossible to say. However, begin with 2% to 3% of his IDEAL adult weight each day. Watch him over time and adjust as necessary. If he gets fat, feed less and vice versa. Many new raw feeders have this great need to measure everything. That need will quickly disappear and you will just know how much to feed. You will also stay in touch with your dogs "build" and adjust his food accordingly.

How much do I feed my puppy?
This one is a little more complicated so pay attention here. Begin feeding him 10% of his weight a day. Once 10% of his weight exceeds 2% to 3% of his IDEAL ADULT weight (not present weight), feed the 2% to 3%. All the time you are doing this you are conscious of his build and adjust the amount of food accordingly. The puppy will tell you how much to feed him by his build.

How young can I begin feeding raw?
I personally have fed a 12 week old puppy raw. I know breeders who will wean their puppies directly to raw. My suggestion is to begin feeding raw the day you bring him home.

Tell me how to balance the diet.
People worry an awful lot about balancing their dog's diet. It seems to me that they worry more about their dog's diet than their own or their family's diet. They are dogs. Their digestive systems and their bodies are not that fragile. Feed meat, bones, and organs from a variety of animals and the diet will balance itself over time. Remember that term "over time". It's not necessary to balance each meal. Balance over time. People getting into raw feeding tend to worry a lot about ratios and percentages and weights. Forget all that. Feed raw meat and bones and organs from a variety of animals and things magically work themselves out. What is ideal? The average prey animal has about 10% to 15% bone, about 10% organs, and the rest muscle and fat and connective tissue. If you feed 5% bone or 25% bone, it won't matter. 5% organs or 20% organs doesn't make any difference. Just stay somewhat in the ballpark and you will be ok. One thing I look at is the dog's poop. You will become an expert poop watcher. Ideally, the poop should be solid and turn white and powdery in a day or 2. If the poop is runny, it generally means you need to feed more bone. If it is white and powdery when it comes out, feed less bone. The poop and my dog's build is all I watch and I don't look at poop very often anymore.

Do I feed supplements?
As long as you feed raw meaty bones and organs from a variety of animals then you shouldn't need to supplement a healthy dog. Of course if your dog has a health problem, you might want to add supplements for that. One more possibility. Some add salmon oil capsules for omega 3's. I don't because I feed fish at least once a week.

Where and how do I buy my raw meats?
A good place to buy in bulk is to go to small independent grocery stores and have them order things like chicken backs and turkey necks by the case. Backs come in 40# cases and turkey necks come in 30# cases. Small independent stores are usually willing to help you get cases of meats. The big chain stores just aren't set up for such purchases. Ethnic markets are another source of meats, particularly organs. Check with restaurants and see where they get meats and try those places. Finding cheap meat is fun and will become a game once you get into raw feeding.

Can you give other tips on raw feeding and how to make it easy?
There are many and you will learn most as you go and you will have to work out your own routine. It will be complicated and cumbersome in the beginning but you will work out your routines and it becomes very little more difficult than feeding kibble. One suggestion is when you buy by the case, break up the case into meal size portions and put them in freezer bags. As you feed one meal, get the next out of the freezer to be thawing.

What about Germs from the raw meat?
The digestive juices of our canines are more than 50% hydrochloric acid. It is very deadly to the bacteria that your dogs ingest. Dog/wolves in the wild are exposed to all kinds of e-coli, salmonella, etc all the time and suffer no ill effects from it. (Afterall they lick their butts all the time!) A canine in the wild can stumble upon a carcass of a prey animal that has been dead for a week or more and will gladly eat it. I had a Golden Retriever whose favorite treat was a road kill squirrel that had been dead and laying in the hot sunshine for about a week. Whenever she ate one, there was never any side effects from it. Its safe to feed your dogs meat that has gone bad in the refrigerator. Don't worry about germs when feeding your dog. It's a non-issue. I have never heard of a dog nor a family member getting sick from feeding your dog raw.

Thats it. If you have more questions, feel free to ask me and I'll add them to the list. This is raw feeding in a nutshell. To learn more about raw feeding: Read the book "Works Wonders" by Dr. Tom Lonsdale You can find it at "http://www.rawmeatybones.com" . You may download it for a very small fee in PDF format.

A few informative web sites are:
"http//rawfeddogs.net/"
"http://www.rawlearning.com/rawfaq.html"
"http:rawfed.com/myths/index.html"





Bill Carnes

 

I give these in moderation:

broccoli
green beans
carrots
apples (no pits)
pears
watermelon (no pits)

 

i supplement:
russet or sweet potato
banana
apple ( no core)

 

I give my dog a few frozen raspberries each day as a treat.

 

You have too grind up/or use a blender for friuts or veggies, dog can't digest otherwise, fruits 20 min before or after any other food and light on the veggies for raw feed 75-25 ratio of meat vs veggies so...what ever the person with the really long post up thier too said, and 3 cheers for the Irish- 1 cheer, 2 cheers, 3cheers!

 

I just saw this tread so here is what i feed.
I give them carrots,broccoli,apples,wild berries and pumpkin I feed them this in the morning and in the afternoon i feed them there raw....

 

I read awhile back that garlic powder was good too. It helps ridding your dog of worms and keeping them out. You could mix like 2 teaspoons of it with his food =)

 

Well as for me I don't really use veggies but I'm still fine tuning my reciepe so that could change lol! For the most part if i were to use veggies I'd prob use a blender to break them down to get that bioavailablity that's just my thougth on that.

 

Whoa! That is waaaaaaaaaaay too much garlic. You will kill a dog with that kind of garlic dose. Too much garlic is toxic for a dog as garlic, like onion, contains thiosulphate and garlic powder is CONCENTRATED garlic. *If* you are going to give a dog garlic powder daily, just a teeny, tiny dash will do to help keep away fleas and ticks!

~Tiger

 

^ exactly. a ~pinch~ of garlic powder is sufficient

 

ah alright well it was somethin that i had read im sorry