What to Do with the Poo

A member on another forum asked a very interesting question regarding the disposal of his doggie doo's. If you have ever wondered what to do with the poo there is a simple and easy process that turns the doodies into usable and use full compost that can be used on your garden plants and shrubs without too much work and expenditure. This would interest those of you that have a lot of dogs after we had already come to the conclusion that if you only have a few dogs it would be better to just toss the poo in the trash and let the trash man dump it on the dump. So if you have many dogs this is how to make a doggie doo composter and the link I added is the government approved method of composting doggie doo's with instructions on how to fabricate larger composters for those with many many dogs. The activated compost needs to be brought up to quite a high temperature to kill any harmful pathogens in the poo before it can be spread in the garden beds and rather do not use it on any of your vegetable gardens for health reasons.

Here's a step-by-step description:

Take and old garbage can and drill a dozen or so holes in the side.
Cut out the bottom (A keyhole saw works great for this.)
Dig a hole in the ground, deep enough for the garbage can.
Toss some rocks or gravel in the hole for drainage and position the garbage can so it's a little higher than the soil level.
Place the lid on top (you might want to paint it with something like Dog Waste Composter.)
When you scoop some poop, put it in the hole and sprinkle in some septic starter (available at hardware stores) and add some water. Some mix the poo with a percentage of saw dust as well before they chuck it into the composting bin.

Do not use dog compost on your veggie garden because it contains pathogens but the doggy doo compost is ok for the shrubs and plants that don't get eaten by humans. The pathogens can be killed by ensuring the compost reaches over 135 degrees temperature over a few days, you'll need a long thermometer specially designed for measuring compost temperatures which should be available from any home and garden stores.

http://www.nrcs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_D ... 035763.pdf

 

Sorry I don't seem to be able to post the link hope this one works:-

http://www.nrcs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/nrcs142p2_035763.pdf

 

I thought about this as well. I have a turntable compost collector. Heard of people using cow manure lol for fertilizers. Man can I handle it when its time to open the container. I guess afterwards I can fertilize the woods with it. Lmao... Good idea though other than giving it to Mr.Garbage Man.

 

That's some good shit....like, far out Man lol.

Cheech and Chong: Up in Smoke Funniest Scene Uncut - YouTube

 

On a smaller scale a 5 gal bucket used in the same fashion also works.


Shotgun
Arkansas

 

I pay kinitodrake $20 every Sunday to come and clean my yard.

 

I bag mine and throw it with my regular garbage. I'm down to just 5 dogs here so it's pretty manageable. Don't know what I would to with more than 10+, probably find a dumpster close by. I like the in ground septic method but with a frozen ground 5 to 6 months of the year I doubt that would work well here.

 

Rake, shovel, 5 gallon bucket. I've got a big dirt pile I fold the poo into and use it as top soil for gardening

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Similar to compost pile

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Yes its difficult to make compost in cold weather. The link I posted explains how to do it in cold weather like they experience in Alaska. You'd usualy need to add an activator to kick start the heating process of the compost in cooler weather but usually one would need to wait for warmer weather in the Spring for the compost to start breaking down. Heres a bit on Activators:- COMPOST ACTIVATORS
The composting process involves the decomposition of organic materials by naturally
occurring bacteria and fungi. One of the purposes of adding soil to the compost pile is to
serve as a source of these microorganisms. However, for the organisms to build up in
large populations, it is also necessary that nitrogen be available to the micro-organisms
and this needs to be supplied in some cases with an addition of an activator material. If
you are attempting to compost primarily brown materials such as leaves, wood chips, or
related products, supplemental nitrogen will need to be applied by using either
commercial fertilizer sources or a naturally occurring source of nitrogen. Examples of
naturally occurring nitrogen containing materials include blood meal, previously made
compost, fish meal, manure, or alfalfa meal.
Amount to Use
The amount of activator necessary is dependent upon the concentration of nitrogen in the
activator material. For concentrated materials such as commercial fertilizer, utilizing 1 to
2 cups of fertilizer per 10 sq. ft. of compost bed area should be sufficient. If you are using
material such as blood meal, alfalfa meal, or concentrated manure, use 1-2 lbs. of this
material per 10 sq. ft. of compost bed area. If you are using previously made compost,
apply 4-5 lbs. of compost per 10 sq. ft. compost pile area. Following the addition of the
activator, continue to build the pile by adding another 6-8 inches of organic material, a
light sprinkling of ½ - 1 inch of soil, and an additional application of activator.
After the pile is completed and moistened, blend the contents of the pile, soil, and
fertilizer by stirring the pile with a fork or rake. The nutrient contained in the activator
will be absorbed in the bodies of the microorganisms as they build up in large
populations to break down organic materials in the compost. After the composting
process is completed, these nutrients plus any additional nutrients available in the organic
materials, are released back into the compost as the micro- organisms die, and this
accounts for the high nutrient value of a well made compost.
Bacterial Activators
You can purchase products known as compost activators which contain fungi and
bacteria necessary to start the composting process. Purchasing these types of activators is
not necessary if you are able to use garden soil in the compost pile since soil contains a
wide range of these organisms that occur naturally. However, if you prefer to purchase
the activators rather than adding soil, follow the label directions on how much activator
to add per unit of compost volume or area.