Don mayflied 's catmill keep

gar · Aug 18, 2011

redrumdog said: ↑

i have just one question about don's keep on conditioning.don worked 4 and 6 dogs at a time for a show on different occasions and did very well.did don have more then one jenny to work these dogs and if not how did he work more then 2 at a time?
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well he worked diffrent dogs at different times and on different patrs of the keep not only the catmill.he left his job to concentrate on the doggame and would work dogs nearly 24 hours a day when he had a number in keep, and get but a few hours sleep a day.he also had a yard boy or a friend to help him work the dogs so he could get some sleep and to work more dogs .

TripleJ · Aug 20, 2011

gar 120 what took so long. lol just kiddin. im glad you did well. but be honest you know damn well you didnt dryout like that or work 8 hrs a day on him. look i had a catmill for a long time i know how to use one. the only reason i gave it to clay hill kennels is becouse pigs can fly they flew over my place all the time.

gar · Aug 20, 2011

triplej said: ↑

gar 120 what took so long. Lol just kiddin. Im glad you did well. But be honest you know damn well you didnt dryout like that or work 8 hrs a day on him. Look i had a catmill for a long time i know how to use one. The only reason i gave it to clay hill kennels is becouse pigs can fly they flew over my place all the time.
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sorry triple j dont know whatyour refering to , as for you having a catmill and giving it away , well maybe you did , but mayfield worked his dog upto 8 hours thats not to say he worked every dog the same , but he did dryout the dogs and had them pulled leaner than most ,and he told me that when he sometimes got it wrong in the early days on the catmill and there weight would drop , but as his understanding of conditoning on a catmill developed ,he found he could put more work on them and bring them in at their true weight , and still be very strong , were as most other dogmen would bring their dog in 2/3lbs heavier than mayfield would have , but mayfield told me that people would look at his dogs when he brought them to pitside and they would say that they looked underweight etc , but don told me that he would have troulbe holding onto a 30lb dog he had it in such top condition , and as he showed up more and more with a superior condtion on his dogs , the other dogmen who thought he had cut them to fine , all wanted to know how he did it , and infact he did show many how to condtion on a catmill .a dog thatis wet inside from to much fat will run hot and the red blood cel count will drop or be watered down , mayfield knew that the dog had to have a high red blood cell count to have more oxygen and more stamina .

Studentofthegame · Oct 19, 2011

preme said: ↑

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when i first got into the dog game and worked my first dog i worked him with roadwork and walk. I showed up with a top conditioned dog and won in 1 hour and 10 minutes. The next dog i worked was with a treadmill plus roadwork and walk. She too, was in good shape and won in 1 hour and 15 minutes,
if i remember correctly. I lost with one the same day but it was not because of my conditioning.

the next thing i found out when working a dog is that they can be put in shape most anyway a person sees fit.

since i was working on a job most of the time, the next thing i started working on was an easy way to work a dog. I had seen everyone else’s way of working a dog by now, but i had something else in mind. I wanted to work a dog like a wild dog would work if he had to hunt and kill his food, more so like the big cats do, or like an eagle. They make their kill when they are very thin with no fat whatsoever on them. This is the time when most wild animals kill for food. Their blood count is on a natural high and there is no fat to make them breathe hot. This is when they are their sharpest and make their kill. Their condition at the time of the kill will not return until they are ready for their next kill. In between times the wild will tend to get fat and slow and lazy and they will have miss after miss until they lose all their fat and get sharp, hunting and working their bodies into shape.

in my way of thinking, the cat mill was the machine i was looking for. Frank fitzwater showed me his, he had a big wagon wheel on a hub with a 2x4 sticking out about 12 feet with a chain on it and another 2x4 in front of it with a box attached. Frank told me that it was a catmill but nobody he knew would use one because
they were afraid they would half kill their dog and that you could never get the dog to the pit in one piece.

at this time every dogman i had met worked his dog with a harness on them, and myself being a newcomer,
i also worked my dogs with a harness on them. Besides it looked good on a dog.
a harness has its own place for the dog. And the only place i found to use it is when taking a picture.

i liked the catmill i had seen a franks, but i could plainly see that it was very out-dated. I then went home and made one with 20 feet from the center of the track. I still nearly killed the first dog i worked on it even at 20 feet. I then dug out my track and put a bank three feet high on the outside of the track. This did the trick and when my dog would run hard on the mill he would run up on the bank. When he slowed down
he would walk or trot in the bottom of the track. I also had a drain to keep the water out of the track.

this catmill had its down-falls, but for ten years it had every top conditioner in the game asking me how i worked my dogs. The first ones were leo kinard and george saddler, in fact they both asked me the same day. That was the day i won with the first dog i had ever worked on it. The match went 2 hrs. 16 min. With my dog scratching 27 times and never taking a deep breath or never off his feet. This same dog had won his last match when worked by his owner frank fitzwater, but was labeled a cur, something heinzl had bred to sell
and make a little feed bill money. This dog had been tried when 2 1/2 years old and would not fight.
frank bought this dog known as fitzwater's goldie for $15.00, as they were going to kill the dog.
when i won with goldie he was over 7 years old. Goldie was the sire of the zeke dog,
who was the sire of the indian’s bolio, the dog pat patrick stole.

i worked dogs on this catmill for ten years and the trouble i had keeping feet under a dog,
you would never believe. So, from then on i started looking for something that would out do the catmill.

i went a little to the treadmill until this welder friend of mine called maverick and myself built a catmill 57 feet from one side of the track to the other, with both sides of the mill 28 1/2 feet from the center and both sides the same so the weight would be the same. With this mill i was able to improve my conditioning but i was still having trouble keeping feet under the dog. After trying many different things, i found the only thing to do would be to put something in the track like hay and let it rot. It made a good soft track. I was still having trouble keeping shoulders under my dogs and with this mill i was knocking out more than before. The mill is free wheeling and when a dog runs on it hard, then slows down the mill will keep on going fast and will go over the dog pulling the shoulders right out of joint, thus crippling them for a few days. This is about the time i found out what a harness was good for, so i went over to a good wide working collar. This time my dogs started showing up with a much stronger neck and a faster mouth. I was beginning to see more and more of what i was looking for. For a while i would quit using my common sense and i would walk my dog from 2 to 5 miles before i would work him. This took a lot of time, so something had to go. This is when i quit walking my dogs from 2 to 5 miles and started walking them about 1 mile with a 100 foot light weight rope and the dogs would walk about the same. I then started walking my dogs less and less until i got to where i’m at now.
about 25 yards… i found that all the talk i had heard about walk walk walk your dog
or he would not be in shape was about to become a thing of the past. With the catmill keep this is true.

at this time i had worked three dogs for one show. I then worked five dogs for one show, then six dogs, then six dogs again, with all the dogs showing up in top condition. Out of twenty dogs worked on my catmill only 3 lost. About this time, i started noticing a catmill in almost everyones yard. More and more people coming by and taking notes about the catmill and the keep i was using with it. I learned a lot from other people like george saddler. He told me to work a dog in the same way for 3 days before increasing his work again. By listening
and understanding it helped me with my keep. Earl tudor once told me that the best thing for a tired dog is rest,
this too helped my keep. Later you will see how two small bits of advice from the two top conditioners
ever in the dog game helped me with my keep, after i had understood what i had learned from them.

when you start working a dog for a match, you need 10 weeks of good work to have him ready and fit. You never go to a vet the entire keep. You start out by worming your dog for whips and hooks, then 5 days later worm him for tapes and rounds plus hooks. 5 days after that worm him again for whips and hooks, then 5 days later tapes and round plus hooks, this should have him clean. You will worm him one more time at 2 1/2 weeks before the match. Each time you worm the dog give him 3 cc.'s combiotic and when you worm your dog,
make it after you have worked him, then rest him the next day, giving him dry dog chow
with castor oil (one ounce over his feed) and always have fresh water for him to drink.

start your dog out slow on the mill with a coon in a small wire pin about 2 feet from the dog. We like to use coon because a coon is not scared of a dog and they enjoy the ride on the mill and like to tease the dog. Keep a milk jug in front of your dog letting it bounce just out of reach for the dog. The kind of jug i am talking about is a one gallon plastic jug, tied with a good rope from the front arm where the coon is in the pen.
put this jug on the mill after you get your dog working 30 minutes.

have your dog on his pit weight, he should look on the thin side with no fat showing. His head should be full with no bones showing. Have your dogs feet in good shape by making a mixture of one part linseed oil, one part turpentine and one part burnt motor oil. With a paint brush paint the feet every time you take the dog off the mill. Use corona ointment, or any good antiseptic lubricant in a suave form, then put this suave on the feet every time you put your dog on the mill and every day afterwards, even a few times a week when he is resting.

you should be up to 30 min., now jump your dog up 30 min. Every other day until you get him up to 6 hours. Give your dog a 30 min. Rub down every time you take him off the mill. The way a dog should be rubbed down is on a small table, a little over waist high. Stand behind the dog at the end of the table and start by rubbing the front legs down, from the shoulders down, then take your right hand going under the right side of the dog to the front of the left shoulder pulling back down the chest all the way back to the top right side of the top right stifile up high in the gut. Do the same with the other hand, going to the opposite side every other time. From there down the back, from behind the ears to the tip of the tail and down the side of the rib cage. This way the hair grows. The back legs are the next place to rub down. Rub down the way the hair grows, from the top to the bottom of the leg. You should give each area about 5 minutes. Last, come to the head. Turn the dog around; rub the head just like the rest of the body, the way the hair grows. Have a mixture of 1 pint water and two tablespoons of powdered ammonia alum, dip your fingers into the mixture and with wet fingers rub the inside of the lips and gums. Trying to get as much as possible on the inside of the top lip and gums with the dog swollen as little as possible. When you rub the outside of the top lip, rub from the nose to the ear with wet fingers using the alum mixture. When rubbing your dog, rub with the light weight of the hand, using baby oil every fourth day, getting the hands wet with oil then rubbing then dry, covering the dog in oil, keeping away from the eyes. Once a week pour about 3 cc.'s of hydrogen peroxide solution into each ear, then let him shake his head, do the same with rubbing alcohol. Make his last rub down with baby oil 5 days prior to the match. With his last rub down, two days prior to the match, stop the alum mixture. His work should also stop 5 days before the match.
with his last week of work jumping up to 8 hours or even 10 hours, trying to have your dog tired 5 days in front of his match, and when i say tired, i like to see them not wanting to run out of the dog house to meet you.
on the eleventh and ninth days before the match give them 2 cc.'s of combiotic and cut work in half. On the tenth and ninth day give first shot after work and on the eleventh day before the match. When the dog is up to about 2 hours take the plastic jug and let the rope out so the dog can reach it. Start this after the dog has been working about 1 hour, teasing the dog with it, trying to get the dog to take a hold of it, as when they take a hold it should not be close to the ground. The dog will then start shaking and backing up with the jug. You should talk to your dog for around a min. Or two just like you were talking to him in the pit, watching his eyes as he
will watch yours. Then letting him start to tire, never letting any slack in the rope. The dog will start walking forward to keep him from losing the jug, (by now most dogs won’t need a coon in front of them, just the jug) start letting your dog have 30 min. Of jug work every other day in his work, letting the jug bounce close to his nose so he may catch it a few times a work out. Working for at least 30 min. And work up to about
1 hour with this jug in his mouth. End this work 5 days prior to the match.

the next work is to have your dog on a cable run from one tree limb to another if possible, about 300 feet apart, with a heavy chain of about twenty feet long and the cable ten feet from the ground, after the twenty foot chain has been clamped with a rebolt. Swivels should be at both ends of the chain, and a ring big enough for a 2 inch collar to go through, a good leather collar with baby oil put on it every week to keep it safe. Have this setup as close to the mill as possible, about seven to eight feet would be perfect, but make sure that it is as close as they can get. Have a good house for your dog with a good shade where he can get cool air and fresh water under high shade. His house should be far enough back that his chain will not hang on his house. Always have good bedding in his house and a cool shade for the hot days. Every other day from the jug work, take a coon tail on a short, light pole and work him up to 30 min. After starting at 5 min. A day. Keep the tail low to the ground with the dog at the end of his chain pulling out after the coon tail, with the heavy chain and cable pulling him back.
go from side to side making your dog move fast, then slow. Do this work for 15 min. Before his mill work
and for 15 min. After his mill work. Then work him up to 30 min. Before and after mill work.
this work should be ended 6 days before the match.

the walk should never be any more than just far enough to get your dog to empty before each days work and it will get shorter and shorter. When your dog empties get a stick and look through this dump. If you ever see blood on the outside wall, your dog will have whip-worms. If it is blood running through the stool it is hook-worms. If there is little white worms coming out of the stool, flat like, they are tape-worms. The stool should always be firm, never hard and never loose. After you check the stool, start walking your dog to the mill, sending him on just like you would send a dog in a match. Always try to walk him as close to the mill so he may walk to the mill after he has emptied. The feed should start with a good hi-protein dry feed, about 2 cups at first with a 1/4 cup of wheat germ, a 1/4 can mustard greens, 1 cup of corn bread, with vitamins of desiccated liver-tablets (7 1/2 grains, start at 5 a day and work up to 15 a day), give 1 vitamin e (400 iu), give 1 vitamin c (1000 milligrams), 4 papaya digestive aid, 1 iron with molasses. Try and have all your vitamins, natural vitamins. You should add to your dry dog feed as much as need be to hold your dog at about 2 pounds over his pit-weight. Come off this vitamin e five days in front of the match. Add about 1/8 to 1/4 cup of water to his feed,
just enough to wet it, just before you feed.

four weeks in front of the match start with his meat, good heavy beef like bull-neck, cut the meat into small chunks about 1/2 inch square. Start with 1/2 lb. And add up to 1/2 lb. To 3/4 lb. 5 days in front of the match. Always cut all the fat out of the meat. Use only red, lean meat. Sear the meat in as little as possible and pour
this juice over the meat and mix. (just so it will be wet going down, but dry when it gets to the stomach).

at least 2 times on your dog's rest day, get a big joint leg bone from the butcher, boil it in water for about 20 min., let it cool and cut your feed in half and give this bone after feeding. The next evening after feeding him 1/2 a feeding on his rest day, take the bone away from him. When feeding this bone always feed 1/2 feeding
the day before the next day and give the bone that day. Then feed half feeding on the rest day.
this bone should be fed, about 2 1/2 weeks before the match.

the water should be put in front of the dog each morning, fresh and in a bucket. The first 2 weeks of work, walk your dog until he cools all the way after his work on the mill. After his rub down let him drink. After 2 weeks of work put the dog in front of his fresh water and let him drink as much as he wants to until 5 days before the match. Always feed dry so your dog will drink a lot of water. Always let him drink as soon as he comes off the mill after 2 weeks of work. Give one tablespoon of raw honey every three days over the feed.

this should bring everything up to 5 days in front of the match. In the next issue of pit pal i will explain the last week of keep. This will show you how to point a dog. The week that will let you know if you can do it or not.

for the first 8 weeks give a 1/2 teaspoon of salt 2 times a week,
make sure you give it in their feed 2 days in a row, then 5 days no salt, then 2 days salt.
the last salt is to be given 14 days in front of the match.

to understand just what the salt will do to your temperament, go without salt in your food for 14 days, then eat salt over your food and drink lots of water for 3 days, your temperament will change from easy to get along with and very friendly to a short tempered, very grippe person the closer the fourteenth day comes around.

to understand what the salt will do to the blood is to understand what a high red-blood count is and what a
low-red-blood count is. To know how to get a high red-blood count is to go without salt and your body will
pull away from water and when your body pulls away from water it will start to dehydrate. Your blood will start
to concentrate, as you will get a very high red-blood count. In order to get your red-blood count down low,
eat salt for 3 days and drink a lot of water and you will see your red-blood count will go down
as your body will take on water and once more you will have a smile on your face.

the reason for a high red-blood count is that the blood will be concentrated and that means
more red-blood cells to go through the body to the lungs to cool off and back through the body to cool it off,
so it will keep a dog from getting hot, as the hotter the body gets, the weaker it will get.

another reason for a high red-blood count is the blood, when concentrated, the dog can get an artery cut and in just a few seconds the bleeding will stop because the blood is so pure it will seal, and stop the loss of blood.

so, to understand, this is a peak, that you must try and reach the last 5 days, is to understand what a person is talking about when he talks of drying a dog out. The last 5 days in front of the match your dog should be put into a crate and kept in a quiet, cool place (i keep mine in my bedroom). The water should be given to
your dog by hand, and not left in front of him. He should have soft bedding in his crate, clean dry hay.
he should weigh 1 1/2 pounds to 2 pounds over his pit weight.

for the last 5 days the feed should start to change. Feed more red meat and less purina high-protein and more wheat germ and cereal. Also, start cutting the mustard greens. The next to the last feeding should be not more than a 1/2 cup of purina high-protein, a 1/2 cup of wheat germ cereal and a 1/2 pound of red, lean meat.
cooked in no water. Should be seared on all sides, very rare, cut in one-inch cubes, with all vitamins.

the last feeding should be fed 26 hours before his match. Red, lean beef, cut in one-inch cubes
with a 3/4 cup of wheat germ cereal with his vitamins. The meat should be seared in no water,
very rare but, seared on all four sides with 2 tablespoons full of honey.

the dog should be walked 4 times a day for the first 3 of the last 5 days before the match. The first walk should be 30 min. After daybreak. Walk 2 miles in a field with a fifteen-foot lead rope, so that the dog can walk slow and empty out, taking his time. Then when starting back to the crate, walk behind him with a short lead rope of six to eight feet, letting him pull back to the crate, as you talk to him, sending him on. He should be walked the same, one hour before dark. He should be taken for a short walk of 1/2 mile between his first walk and his walk before dark. He should have his second short walk about two hours after dark. The last two days your dog should be walked the same 4 times, but no longer than 1/4 of a mile in the morning and 1/4 of a mile
in the evening, before dark. The walk between the morning and the evening should be 1/4 of a mile,
the same as the walk you take two hours after dark. But, on the day of the match, the dog should have his
last 1/4 of a mile walk one hour before his match. 5 minutes before the match he should be given a very
short walk to empty his kidneys. The walks the last two days, you should never send your dog on,
making him pull, try and have him save all the strength he can as he will need all of it at match time.

to understand the peak you are after from the feeding and the walking for the last 5 days is to understand the feed. The feed went from carbohydrates and protein to protein with just enough, so the dog will weigh in on weight, keeping the stool as firm as possible, as too much feed will make the stool loose and not enough feed will weaken him. To understand the reason for this walk is to understand fully the peak you are after.
have all the inners empty at match time.

to water a dog the last 5 days before the match you should give him water after his morning walk with a tablespoon full of honey in the water, letting the dog drink what you think he might need. To make weight, as he should be weighed after each walk and watered 2 times a day for the first 2 of the last 5 days before the match, the next 2 days water only 1 time a day making the last water 26 hours before the match. To understand the peak you are after when watering and feeding and weighing your dog after each walk, is to understand how much feed and water you put in your dog before the match. The last 5 days while he is resting
take the water away from him slow letting his weight drop to right on pit weight. The day of the fight,
if your dog starts to drop under his weight, turn the hot water on in the shower, making the air very wet
as the dog breathes the wet air his weight will go up, if your dog is losing weight too slow you should
turn on the air-conditioner so the air will be very dry, his weight will start to fall.

to understand conditioning and to see a body put into the best condition possible, is a thing of beauty. To put a body in this condition you have got to try and get as close to nature as you can, like we say about the eagle and the condition of his body. The eagle, scoring the blue skies, overlooking the land of the wild, his eyes open wide, looking for his prey as he feels the pain of hunger in his inners, with his ears open wide he can hear the chatter of his mate, as she tries to content their offspring, while they cry out from hunger. Then with the movement of an object from under the huge trees, he dives from instincts traveling at his top speed, turning his body from side to side, to miss the limbs of the huge trees sweeping down to killing a rabbit, as it sits very still with his ears cocked to hear the air being cut by an eagle. This is condition, this is survival, the only way any living thing
can put there bodies at there peak is to live by the law of the land, your body must stay as close to its peak
or you will not survive. To understand the meaning of the condition is to see every part of the body at its peak. That is what you are after when you get a dog ready to fight for life or death.

two small bits of advice from two of the top dog men in the dog game - increase the work and rest a tired dog. To understand this is to understand what a tired dog looks like when he is over worked and needs a day of rest.
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if you are not game enough to complete a keep of this magnitude,neither will your dog,keeps like this seperate the boys from the men and the aces from the curs,..........jmo
boy what fun life must have been pre 1976

TripleJ · Oct 19, 2011

What the fuck ever. Look I have used a cat mill for years and as a matter a fact Im building them now for people and I will build another one for my self. Yall talk all that game shit yall want BUT I KNOW not READ I KNOW you will hurt a dog over working one too long one one and NO I dont belive working a dog 8 or 10 hrs on a cat mill will make a good dog. They are a good tool yes but 10 hrs working a dog will ruin one. FACT now all yall do what ya want but when your dog aint worth a shit dont come crying on here to me I TOLD YA. NO dog should need more than 2 hrs mill work. Fact this aint a cross country run people this is working for a hunt. NO I will not put out my cat mill keep. you want my keep BUY a mill thats the way it is, If you want to know how to work one on the cat mill intodays time. Not some dremt up shit but real life work your bulldog to win. I aint tring to piss on anyones shoes about yall hero or what ever but the truth is that I dont care what you read The facts are that. I tell you what all yall that think you want to work your dog 10 hrs on a mill get one run your dog 15 min one day 30 min the next 45 min the next then1 hr then 1:15 now take walk that dog on day 6 and walk him and see what I am talking about. thats 6 days less than 1:30 min on the mill . you will see just what I meen. Yall know whats funny I got all kinds of pms Everyone saying how they cant belive yall even belive that keep. But Hey a fool and his money are soon parted everyday. You want a real cat mill you want to know how to use it. (the right way) hit me up. we are building mills everyday. I was not going to put that out on fourm. but I have been building mills for a coons age. And I do know how to use the fuckin things. like I said. just work one one week like that and then post something.

Studentofthegame · Oct 19, 2011

TripleJ said: ↑

What the fuck ever. Look I have used a cat mill for years and as a matter a fact Im building them now for people and I will build another one for my self. Yall talk all that game shit yall want BUT I KNOW not READ I KNOW you will hurt a dog over working one too long one one and NO I dont belive working a dog 8 or 10 hrs on a cat mill will make a good dog. They are a good tool yes but 10 hrs working a dog will ruin one. FACT now all yall do what ya want but when your dog aint worth a shit dont come crying on here to me I TOLD YA. NO dog should need more than 2 hrs mill work. Fact this aint a cross country run people this is working for a hunt. NO I will not put out my cat mill keep. you want my keep BUY a mill thats the way it is, If you want to know how to work one on the cat mill intodays time. Not some dremt up shit but real life work your bulldog to win. I aint tring to piss on anyones shoes about yall hero or what ever but the truth is that I dont care what you read The facts are that. I tell you what all yall that think you want to work your dog 10 hrs on a mill get one run your dog 15 min one day 30 min the next 45 min the next then1 hr then 1:15 now take walk that dog on day 6 and walk him and see what I am talking about. thats 6 days less than 1:30 min on the mill . you will see just what I meen. Yall know whats funny I got all kinds of pms Everyone saying how they cant belive yall even belive that keep. But Hey a fool and his money are soon parted everyday. You want a real cat mill you want to know how to use it. (the right way) hit me up. we are building mills everyday. I was not going to put that out on fourm. but I have been building mills for a coons age. And I do know how to use the fuckin things. like I said. just work one one week like that and then post something.
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ummm can you prove this keep is a fraud

TripleJ · Oct 19, 2011

I dont have to prove anything. Do it do just what that keep says ' LOL I would say any fool with any brain would never do that shit but I see that is not the case so DO that to your charges and see how strong you are see how long you last and see if you live after.

northdogger · Oct 19, 2011

For me its coming down to some common sense. I would no way i hell work a dog for 8-10hours a day! Why the hell would i do that? Lol..

junior roca · Oct 19, 2011

aaa ten hours is a long time the muscles in yo dog has gotta be acheing i mean you might need iv's after such a keep now i know you limit the water but not take it away but i do want some of that blood who yall know has the breed other than rod k cuz people say he cant be trusted....so i dont want to be beefing bout my money

Studentofthegame · Oct 19, 2011

triplej said: ↑

i dont have to prove anything. Do it do just what that keep says ' lol i would say any fool with any brain would never do that shit but i see that is not the case so do that to your charges and see how strong you are see how long you last and see if you live after.
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lls my hounds will never see a catmill,i was just tryna figure out if you had solid proof this keep never happend,and or never worked,were you around?,i know i wasnt,besides even i wanted to,i couldnt,i got shit to do,i was just wondering if you were into the dogs around the time this keep was said to take place

joelkckit · Oct 19, 2011

wow... 10 hrs... if don is really doing that.. his really healthy person... I walk my dog for 3 hours and everytime i go home i feel exhausted... I dnt know maybe I'm just getting old.. hehehe.

Rampit · Jan 4, 2012

conditioning is all about common sense.It simply means, if you don't believe in the keep. don't use it..For me, you understand first what your dog needs and wants in your conditioning process..so the work out will be efficient and easy for you and to your dog.The best way is put your heart in the process of conditioning and let the dog talk about the conclusions of your work out..And if you win in the show, you can say that the keep you use is all from you that makes you proud..

garth · Jan 4, 2012

I don't care what Don or anyone else says,no dog needs to spend that amount of time on a Jenny or Treadmill to be in great condition.A Proven FACT.

cincyboy · Jan 9, 2012

gar said: ↑

well i wouldnt listen to anyone about conditioning if they thought that mayfields way was wrong , and yes today the conditioning is more varied , people are taking the best of old ways and trying to imrove on it, but don wouldnt have won over 80%of his matches if his dogs werent in top condition,and those are plain facts.today the info on all aspects is available for even the most greenhorn begginer to condition a dog .someone posted a very true fact , that mayfields conditioning would bring the cur out in a dog just in his keep , and this is true , only a true game dog will take that type of keep ,its all about the willingsness to carry on , and i wll bet that the people on this thread who have said that mayfields keep was way over the top , have never even tried to put a keep on thier dogs like mayfields , and if they did maybe they would find out how game thier dogs really are.
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so u tellin me everydog mayfield put through this keep was game so ur sayin he never had a match dog that quit so u sayin running ur dog half to death for ten hours a day and if he survives that make him game c'mon man

cincyboy · Jan 9, 2012

redrumdog said: ↑

I have just one question about Don's keep on conditioning.Don worked 4 and 6 dogs at a time for a show on different occasions and did very well.Did Don have more then one Jenny to work these dogs and if not how did he work more then 2 at a time?
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took the words right out my mouth all people have to is the math

cincyboy · Jan 9, 2012

gar said: ↑

well he worked diffrent dogs at different times and on different patrs of the keep not only the catmill.he left his job to concentrate on the doggame and would work dogs nearly 24 hours a day when he had a number in keep, and get but a few hours sleep a day.he also had a yard boy or a friend to help him work the dogs so he could get some sleep and to work more dogs .
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he said he had a regular job

gringopistolero · Jan 9, 2012

Don held a job as a bellboy in a large hotel when he first got in the dogs. He learned about conditioning from his first mentor Frank Fitzwater and later picked up some things from Tudor. He was also friends with another very respected conditioner named George Saddler.
As far as I know, Don did not work the dogs on a catmill for 10 hours. He had a few that would do nothing else and they worked for longer hours than the average dogs did. He did have dogs he would work for that long but not on the catmill alone and with rest periods and walks in between. Don adapted his keep to meet every dog as should be done however he was known to bring in dogs very thin and unbelievably strong. His dogs were usually larger at the same weight than their competition.
If you do what TripleJ says than you don't know enough to have a dog. If you just follow what is written without regard to common sense then you don't know enough to have a dog.
Rest and recovery is the most important part of any keep, wether it be a dog or a human.

TripleJ · Jan 9, 2012

gringopistolero said: ↑

Don held a job as a bellboy in a large hotel when he first got in the dogs. He learned about conditioning from his first mentor Frank Fitzwater and later picked up some things from Tudor. He was also friends with another very respected conditioner named George Saddler.
As far as I know, Don did not work the dogs on a catmill for 10 hours. He had a few that would do nothing else and they worked for longer hours than the average dogs did. He did have dogs he would work for that long but not on the catmill alone and with rest periods and walks in between. Don adapted his keep to meet every dog as should be done however he was known to bring in dogs very thin and unbelievably strong. His dogs were usually larger at the same weight than their competition.
If you do what TripleJ says than you don't know enough to have a dog. If you just follow what is written without regard to common sense then you don't know enough to have a dog.
Rest and recovery is the most important part of any keep, wether it be a dog or a human.
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Thats why I am so frustrated with people puting up bullshit catmill keeps Look If you do what I said you should not own a dog Im not the one telling people to run dogs that long on a cat mill Im not the one taking h20 like that but what ever yall want do it. i am building the best cat mills in the country now BAR NONE I challenge any one to produce mills as nice as mine that will last as long that people can take down and afford and let me tell yaou this they are as free spinning as they get and you or any one in the world aint working no dog 10 hrs on one. 2 hrs on a mill is more than you need any working out that long hurt you not the other way,

fonzie · Jan 9, 2012

Thanks for the info

redrumdog · Jan 9, 2012

Triple J is right common sense.But I learned a long time ago that common sense and dogmen sometimes don't go together.Somebody said that the dog would have to be game to work this keep.Well hell there we go now we found out how to test for gameness ,run a dog on a catmill for 10 hours and 30 days. You won't have a dog worth a shit if u work them like that.The dog will be dead or have nothing left.As for how good Don was, well he learned from the best in the game George,Frank,Leo.Then he put together his own system and it worked for him.But a lot of factors went into Don developing his system.Ozzie was the same way he learned from the best and then developed his own way.Everyone in the 80's and 90's would ask Ozzie for pointers as in the 70's with Don.You can't buy a keep that is a 100% what a good dogmen uses because then anybody would have it.Really the only way is the old fashion way TO PUT IN YOUR TIME AND LEARN BY WORKING A DOG. WITH A REAL DOGMAN.

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