Working one, without a few generations of working dogs

Hi guys

I am getting more and more interested in working dogs, i have read alot, online and in books i could borrow from others, except it almost always is about dogs who come from proven parents.

I have 2 females, one is Frisco/Lonzo bred, the other one has alot of Boyles.

Maybe in the future i would like to see what and how they do.

What is your guys experience with dogs who have 2 to 4 generations without proven parents?
The more i read on this website, the more i understand of that in General, the APBT nowadays have more Show dogs than working dogs, and i am for sure convinced, that to breed my bitches in the future they must be proven and mate-up with a proven male.

But what i am curious of, is when is a 'show' bred dog like mine, worthy? I mean compared to a Game bred dog. You test them more often, work them harder?

 

Your dogs have good blood behind them. I am not sure what type of work you plan on but I know a lot of hog hunters use scatter bred APBT/staff type dogs all the time and they seem to do the trick.

 

Thank you Box Bulldog, i meant the type of work in the box.
Hog hunting i think is nice to see on videos, but i like dog on dog more.

 

Roll them and game test into a good wrestler but not the hardest mouth, Use a dog about 5lbs heavier that will tell you right away what you have because the roll dog can use the slight weight and size advantage to pour the pressure on. Let them go for a little bit have someone with you, Break them and see if your hound will scratch. Don't let them go to far/long you can ruin a dog like that. Like I said before your dogs have good blood behind them you could have a ace you could have a cur.

 

Roll and test into the best you can find. Hard mouth don't matter too much imo. Might be more to clean/heal up, but you see the reaction to getting bit up and getting the business. Going against a soft mouth won't prepare for a hard one. In a game test, I would wanna see one behind. A high intensity type would also do the trick, one that just keeps comin forward and scratching HARD. If they are 2 or older, ain't no ruinin imo! Bring young pups along slow. When they are older, they have it or they don't

I do agree with pushing weight! Although I feel quality is better. Let's say yours is 42 in decent shape, no keep. John has a 50, 46, and a 38. The 46 and 50 have ok mouth, ok wrestlers, but scratch hard. The 38 is the truth, does it all WITH good mouth! I would use the 38. I've seen 2 that looked even while working, but I knew they weren't the same size. After they were weighed, there was almost an 8# difference! 38# v 28-30#! I saw the same little one push into a 42ish#. i said that to say this. Some dogs are powerful enough to negate the weight difference. What they can't make up for is getting bit hard and often. Use good quality

 

Thank you for the advice, appreciate it alot.
You say in your text, don't let them go to far/long, how do you translate that into damage/minutes?
And with a Roll/Game test, always stop when she still has the will to go on, like right after she makes a scratch?

 

Thanks. I would have to find the right people over here and see what we can get up with. Mine is 38 in decent shape, i know a other dog that is in top shape at the same weight. Both are untouched so far, but i have read before that it is not very often that they roll two untouched dogs against eachother. What is you opinion on that?

 

Could be fireworks, could be waterworks (tears)! If they are both untouched, I would wait until I could find one that has some experience. That way you know the experienced one will start up and give your pup what she needs. Also with an experienced dog, they have usually developed a "style". This can help your young dog shape future experiences dealing with certain styles

 

Okay thank you for the information Appreciate it.