School

Who is the best dog man in history when it comes to schooling and training pit dogs (whos dog/s showed the best skill from his schooling/experience)?

 

Kinda hard to say ,some dogmen didn't believe in schooling .

 

Rite, and then some stand by it. I am one

 

very good post slim...I agree with most of what you said. especially smaller yard when schooling. I have been with my family of animals for the better of 3 generations now .I made a few crosses over the years which I know what those animals brought to the program. I would describe the line itself and a bunch gay dentists in which schooling in the back yard makes it really tough to see the bottom side of the youngns. I am blessed to be close to a team with 150 animals from a variety of lines and styles. all pre 76 ofcourse.

 

True.

 

I believe the only way to learn boxing, is to box.

 

As promoe said a very good post but it goes back to the importance of a roll dog you have to have one that will go from nose to tail a dog that is probably one of your best bull dogs on the yard one that can go tit for tat with about any one out there. When I was just starting out I left the yard for some schooling and later lost to that group with that dead game dog. One of my biggest heartaches still 42 years later I still think of him every day at some time, he put me on the fast road to the right people with his display of gameness. When I talked to a man still a live about what and how it happened the first thing he told me was why would you show your dog to any one remember what you are doing and that is gambling so never show your hand to nobody. From that day on you had to pay to see any of my dogs and that was when I started holding one or two back that had it all and things started coming together, nobody could put a label on me or my dogs. I was told by a very well known dog man that the biggest fear man has is the unknown as in not knowing what you are bringing, by not reporting pre 1976 to the SDJ I would get to laughing how true his words were as I would get hooked and the phone would start ringing men asking questions about this or that and me making up stories as all my hunts were always out of state that's how I knew they were fishing. So if you can't breed one go buy one and treasurer him as you would all your bulldogs you will get better and so will your dogs.

 

So is it true, schooled yougn is better than a natural

 

I think its a matter of patience for healing time, access to assorted sparring partnrs, and knwledge of your body/its limits n strong points. keep blood flowing in the right directions.
Muscle memory has been used synonymously with motor learning, which is a form of procedural memory that involves consolidating a specific motor task into memory through repetition. When a movement is repeated over time, a long-term muscle memory is created for that task, eventually allowing it to be performed without conscious effort. This process decreases the need for attention and creates maximum efficiency within the motor and memory systems.
Man told me "the mill is great for keep, but it aint gon show u how to get yo ass up."

 

You would have to live out in the REMOTE country to do it like this! The more action a dog sees, the more somebody can see the dog has seen some action! After schooling the way you describe would be VERY visible and dangerous to be seen in public. Muscle memory comes with reps, true. That is in reference to TECHNIQUES in humans. Whether it's lifting weights or learning any combative, repitition of techniques will be second nature. Fighting is different tho. I've had a couple fights but not once did I feel my life was in jeopardy! Nobody had knives or weapons dangerous enough to kill is what I'm sayin. Dogs are fighting with, and for their lives. A good holt, a couple bleeders popped, and you ridin home alone...


IMO after 3-4 it's time to go. One should have picked out a couple different styles for sparring and seen what you needed to. Maybe a game test, but that could be the match... Other variables are time, weight, condition, overall health. Ol Joe Boy could get fucked up pretty good with too much schooling when he could be matching. I think the real question is how much is too much, or when is enough, enough?

 

I think you missed my point on patience and healing time

 

Also, as far as reps go. You use pads(muzzls). And be mindful of the body

 

Cnote I think the bottom part of your posts goes a lot alont with that saying "you gotta know what you are looking at before you know what you are looking at". there are those special ones that only come along once in awhile... after a start up and a peak you KNOW they are worth a bet. then there are the ones that take a little coming along and after a cpl of peaks you are still not sure so ya take them in deep water and see if they can make it back to shore.

 

Naw. That's why I replied the way I did. Wounds heal waaaay quicker than scar tissue. You roll a dog a good 3-4 times in a yr and you will be able to tell. I say 3-4+ in a yr because I feel that would be the best way to get muscle memory from a combat dog. Missin hair, knicks on their legs and muzzle, all tell-tale signs. My dog had a HOTSPOT and a random lady at the store asked, "y'all ain't fightin that dog, are you?" He was 10 months and hadn't even had an accident.

 

I wouldn't use muzzles, personally, because I don't see it "teaching" the dog anything. It will just be 2 dogs battling for holts they will never get. Good exercise I guess. In a roll, dog A gets bit on the ankle. He then learns, "I can get him off if I bite his muzzle!" Dog B gets pulled off the ankle by dog A and learns, "I better work that harder, bite higher, or he will bite my muzzle again!" Pain is an excellent teacher! You can watch them get in trouble and the next time the situation arises, they either adapt or get chewed on! IMO rolls are meant to teach the dog something. Whether that's defense, offense, how to push past "the wall", or deal with a crowd or loud noises.

 

YES SIIIIIRRR!!! I think every dog should have been at least looked at pre76. Some more than others. You see bad moves and signs in the first 3, why try a fourth? You see good signs in 3, may be time to match/game test. Isn't one looking for the best candidate to use, breeding or otherwise?? Again, imo, after 3-4 rolls it's time to get it or get out. How much prep can you really give a dog before it's too much? I'm sure he is not thinkin about his last roll during his current roll unless those dogs have similar styles. I think a dog sees a certain style and either can already handle it, learns to handle it, or never will. I wouldn't take a dog out that took a bunch of rolls to learn to adapt. How many rolls does it take to learn? I need to see adaptation asap.

 

Some dog men think every roll is like putting money in the bank and the dog will get better and better, most not all will arise to the occasion that is why I believe the dog man has to get some gameness him self and stand behind their dog and their decision. That is why you should use the best you have to school one out. Years ago I saw one started on his brother neither looked that great then a month latter one was rolled on a GR. CH. and he was a totally different prospect that went on to CH. out. I took this information home and changed the way I would progress on a young one, and my yard got better.

 

Check this out. Roll 4 times, once into a average hound, three times into an ace and or once uphill. . Muzzle twice in between (after tissue heals) healing periods. To gain muscle memory, and wind. Next year repeat. (if you dont get impatient and greedy, and can afford not to take em out until 2.5 yrs. ) this is not for guys who wana hook a dog Asap. This is for a man w alot of hounds and alot of privacy. This will also school the whole yard at once. You will have a yard of two/three year old gr ch level dogs who have never been bet on.