heart rate during maximum stress

http://www.themillmaker.com/page5.html

 

Research on sled dogs has revealed a lot about how canine athletes use carbs/protein and fat (sled dogs need tremendous amounts of fat, carbs do very little in canine endurance athletes).

Here is sort of an introduction:

http://www.purinaproclub.com/sportingdog/Pro%20Plan%20Sporting%20Dogs%20-%20Performance%20dog%20feeding.htm

http://www.k9power.com/fat_dog_diet.php

And a few technical research papers.

http://www.ajcn.org/cgi/content/abstract/30/3/409

http://jn.nutrition.org/cgi/content/full/128/12/2686S)

Years ago, I subscribed to "Mushing Magazine" and it was full of exercise/nutrition strategies for everything from the sprint dogs to the ultra-endurance Iditarod type....

Dreamer

 

These are good info indeed but imply partially to our dogs as our breed does not run Iditarods or hunt in the field all day....they need staying power for 1-2 hrs rarely 3 hrs but need energy for short bursts of speed and power. Fats burns slow and steady...carbs provide the energy our dogs need for high output burst! So you must adjust your feed accordingly but I personally would never cut out carb completely when getting ready for a hunt!

YIS

 

I can't get my heart monitor to work on the dog. It's the kind with the strap, am I supposed to shave a patch of hair where the electrodes go?

 

I have the same problem with the strap one. If anyone use that kind of HR monitoring would be nice to share his experience.
Regards.

 

i think its also a worry on where you get the carbs from.if its in the diet,say for talk sake.....pasta or rice etc......many of those have high starch..which aint so good...which is a sugar i think....such things are good to aid a dog in its feed for recovery after a long one,but,in moderation....imo

 

the strap ones do not work that good they are very hard to get working i got a timex one and i can tweak it to get a quick read but it will not stay on during conditioning. i put the middle piece on his left side and wet the electrodes and his chest.

 

never heard so much shit in all my life, heart monitors ye can shove them up your arse lads, get out with some old timers of the game that lives near by ye, ask them about some of there dogs they keeps etc, help them out with the odd jobs around there place, bring them out for a meal talk dogs, old timers wont be long knowing if your a bull-shitter a day dreamer or a man that wants to go down the road they went, you can watch all the dvds you like on cage fighting but it wont make you a better fighter, but training with the top guys will improve your fighting, getting to know the old timers ways of conditioning is the way to go, learing a few tips can be the difference in winning or losing, can some one please put up a photo of one of the old timers like "earl" or "don" with a heart monitor around there neck , the old ways and the ways of to day are still the same...watching a dogs mouth while he is running an e-mill, slat mill, flirt pole etc has all the answers.

 

Theres nothing wrong with using widely available technology or conditioning tools...
You could be the greatest conditioner in the world and not need it...
if it helps me then ima use it to my advantage. I aint tryn to be like nobody else.

 

i can tell you about six of the best conditioners that used a heart monitor so all that old timer shit you spewin is pure nonsense. and i was told by an old timer who many and i mean many consider the best handler/conditioner ever who used one so calm down with you nonsense

 

if you know your dog and your conditioning then no doubt you will know how to raise the heart rate.no need for a heart rate monitor imho.

 

Conditioning



I chose the technique that conditions the body to utilize the most nutrition in a short time, a "running keep" is a free conditioning. The body will convert a vast amount of nutrients and fuels into energy at a low temperature for a long time. That technique used properly, with a schedule that allows the dog to respiratory recover sufficiently, every time he comes from maximum stress every day at least 6 times, will allow the dog to start the contest prepared to stay at (maximum stress) m/s for as long as it takes. Not fight good for 30 minutes and fade and still win. I mean jump to M/S and at the end of the contest still have an above average heart rate. I'm happy because I did all I could do for that animal, whether I win or lose. The words maximum stress expressed during conditioning means he will break stride to recover. M/S expressed in the contest means while at M/S he won't have to break stride to recover, because his heart rate has never been higher during the contest than any day during the entire "keep". Most likely never reach but 2/3, which will lengthen the time at M/S, and shorten the recovery time so he can get back to the business at hand with style. Technique, scheduling recovery, progressively resting is the correct way to prepare your dog for the contest. A free turning treadmill, easy pulling flying jenny, or a bicycle allows the dog to condition a very high heart rate without any stress, strain or tension. Your dog may get tired, but never get weak and stagger around, even if the contest goes more than an hour. The contest will tell the whole story. I missed it more times than I would like to remember. I hope to enlighten everyone so your dog won't faulter, break stride with no choice in the matter. If at any time he slows down it is because his adversary is on the bottom trying to recover. I will tell everyone everything I know about conditioning maximum/stress, so everyone can make adjustments to my schedule. So after every contest you know if the dog needs more recovery time, extended progressive rest time, longer pre-keep, or fight the dog lighter, with a running keep you can never fight the dog heavy. When you can do that with confidence, you may not do as well as you did last time, but you won't do bad ever again.





Free Conditioning



What to do, what to expect, in preparation and during conditioning, and in preparation for the contest.



The book explains the respiratory recovery method for a bulldog. I've chosen a 15 minute sessions, check the heart rate, if the heart rate is the same or less than the day before take the dog for a 5 minute walk and add 5 minutes of work to the schedule. Do this day after day until you build a second 15 minutes session. I takes two 15 minute sessions to reach maximum stress (M/S) with a rise in temperature. Continue to add five minutes of work until you get a bad recovery. A bad recovery means yesterday was too much work. Now you know essentially how much work your dog can take. Continue to check his heart rate every day at 15 minutes in case you get a good recovery so you can add another 5 minutes, looking for another bad recovery. Whether or not you are adding work or not, three days before the match you cut that work in half. Two days before the match cut the work in half again. Fight day you need to finish your dog like the book tells you. A free turning treadmill is much easier than running down the road.





Rest



When your dog achieves a fixed time because of a bad recovery that day to the end of the keep, your dog will build a solid base of condition. It's called rest! You still check your dog's respiration every day. At this part of the keep his respiration may fluctuate slightly from day to day. Marginal differences should be of no consequence. By this time you will know what a bad recovery is, and make any adjustments in work time. Understanding "maximum stress" plus ten days of pre-keep, and twenty-seven days of the keep only conditions your dog for the fight, three days correctly resting the dog is the only real preparation for the fight night and is equally important as the previous thirty-seven days of keep. Not enough rest or too much rest, has the same effect on your dog. It allows maximum stress (energy deficiency) to show up in the fight sooner than you expected. I rest the dog with less and less mill work in the last three days of the keep, because the dog doesn't need much rest, if any at all. The dog needs to retain the rate of conversion of nutrients into energy. It took mill work to create such a high rate of conversion. I rest the dog just enough for the dog's body to store inside fat ( quick burning energy) that is used and replaced daily under stressful conditions, and retain fluid at the rate that I control. This procedure allows my dog to breath freely throughout the fight, which results in no hot spot; they just keep kicking ass! That's why I like to fight dogs that start fast, because I really love to watch my dog assault the other dog.

just a tid bit from the mill maker robert lemm:confused:

 

Yeah man my friends Mexican mother in law is an old timer she tells my friend that if he wrings out the clean wet clothes the baby will get belly ache

 

If there is no physiological need for carbs in the human diet how can there be a need in the canine diet?

 

Carbs in general or starchy carbs is what you mean in human and canine diet?

 

I was talking about carbs in general. Humans become protein efficient after 21 days so all the plus points written about carbs in regard to athletic training etc. are then achieved in exactly the same way from protein and fat.

Dogs are more carnivorous than humans. Anyone that gives their dogs vegetables and blends them first is providing them in the only way that the dog can actually use them as they then replicate the only way that a dog would eat them in the wild eg. from an animals stomach, already broken down. Without blending the veg cannot be digested properly as dogs cannot break down cellulose (the sugar that is in vegetables, anything that ends in ose is sugar).

Now a more in depth answer. I said there is no physiological need for carbohydrates since the body is capable of making glucose from non-carbohydrate sources. This process is called gluconeogenesis, literally the creation (genesis) of new (neo) glucose.

For humans however there are a lot of important nutrients that can be gained from plant foods, the most important probably being fibre. Fibre should be from non grain sources and like everything else should be rotated to avoid intolerance. But being able to to obtain something from carbs and there being a physiological need are two different things. Also only 25% of the population are carb tolerant, not meaning they have allergic reactions to them but meaning that they are much leaner and healthier if they consume as few as possible.

 

I work out for 26 years, I know my body, I am not a fan of high carb diets, I do believe that modern diet with all this starch and sugars is responsible for many problems, you get my stance. In the past I did bodyopus by D. Duchaine and right now I am at another Atkins type diet, but trust me, without carbs I can not train the same.

 

if you do not think that carbs are essential when working a dog then good luck to you carbs privide the initial energy then this is where you fat sources come in after all the carbs are burned

 

You are absolutely right about many healthy problems being caused by starchy carbs.
I understand what you`re saying about how you feel but like I said it takes several weeks to become protein efficient.

 

bread,rice and pasta are packed with starch.