HighRoller
05-08-2005, 08:22 PM
crosspost--
Obedience Training Basic Lead (Leash) Handling
1. Correct lead hold: Right hand: Right thumb through loop at end of lead, close hand to grasp loop, two fingers (index and middle) grasp lead about half-way down to create "loop of slack". Place hand on pelvis. Left hand on top of right hand or used on lead to bring dog back to position. Small dog owners may want to keep the left hand on the lead by the left upper thigh.
2. Control techniques: To keep your dog under control:
a. Always keep an eye on your dog -- watch for changes in body language or "staring" so you can anticipate breaks in position or control
b. Maintain a stable body position by adopting a wide body stance and keeping your lead safely anchored to your pelvis with both hands.
c. Try to keep your lead loose at all times. If your dog starts to pull:
1. Take a quick step back or away and turn your dog to face you
2. Drop your "loop of slack" and shift your weight back slightly (should
result in a light pop or tug to get dog's attention)
3. Turn and walk or jog away - a short quick step, to get your dog
following you (not dragging him!)
**When you get your dog's attention - PRAISE and readjust the lead
d. Use the "left hand slide" to smoothly and quickly adjust the lead
length, pick up slack or change your dog's position
e. "Control the head, control the dog": When physically positioning or restraining your dog, always control the head and front end by keeping a firm grip on the collar, underjaw or head (or muzzle).
f. Teach your dog to assume and hold a base position (sit on handler's left) where he is less likely to break away.
g. Keep your dog busy by doing short easy exercises, like the "ready" eye contact game or grabbing a special toy.
h. Shape attentive and loose lead behavior -- When you notice your dog watching you or making an effort to stay close, PRAISE HIM!
Basic lead handling:
Approaching other dogs and people: First, Find your dog's "trigger zone" (distance where he can still respond to you easily or not start to stare, growl, bark, lunge etc.).
1. Try to keep your dog outside of trigger zone until you can work on socialization exercises.
2. If you do approach the trigger zone (dog alerts to other dog) DO NOT reinforce or create nervousness/ frustration by pulling back on the lead or tightening up on it -- THIS IS THE WORST THING YOU CAN DO! Also, do not grab or reassure your dog, as these actions only cause more problems!
3. To "counter-condition" in new behavior: As you approach the trigger zone:
a. Watch for the instant your dog alerts, and
b. Quickly redirect your dog to a new activity: "ready" eye contact, about-turn, food, sit, grab a toy.
c. Praise for participation in new activity.
d. Continue until your dog is anticipating the new activity, and is responding easily - then move closer to the dog/ person to establish a closer trigger zone (i.e., dog can get closer to object before getting upset). Repeat process.
Obedience Training Basic Lead (Leash) Handling
1. Correct lead hold: Right hand: Right thumb through loop at end of lead, close hand to grasp loop, two fingers (index and middle) grasp lead about half-way down to create "loop of slack". Place hand on pelvis. Left hand on top of right hand or used on lead to bring dog back to position. Small dog owners may want to keep the left hand on the lead by the left upper thigh.
2. Control techniques: To keep your dog under control:
a. Always keep an eye on your dog -- watch for changes in body language or "staring" so you can anticipate breaks in position or control
b. Maintain a stable body position by adopting a wide body stance and keeping your lead safely anchored to your pelvis with both hands.
c. Try to keep your lead loose at all times. If your dog starts to pull:
1. Take a quick step back or away and turn your dog to face you
2. Drop your "loop of slack" and shift your weight back slightly (should
result in a light pop or tug to get dog's attention)
3. Turn and walk or jog away - a short quick step, to get your dog
following you (not dragging him!)
**When you get your dog's attention - PRAISE and readjust the lead
d. Use the "left hand slide" to smoothly and quickly adjust the lead
length, pick up slack or change your dog's position
e. "Control the head, control the dog": When physically positioning or restraining your dog, always control the head and front end by keeping a firm grip on the collar, underjaw or head (or muzzle).
f. Teach your dog to assume and hold a base position (sit on handler's left) where he is less likely to break away.
g. Keep your dog busy by doing short easy exercises, like the "ready" eye contact game or grabbing a special toy.
h. Shape attentive and loose lead behavior -- When you notice your dog watching you or making an effort to stay close, PRAISE HIM!
Basic lead handling:
Approaching other dogs and people: First, Find your dog's "trigger zone" (distance where he can still respond to you easily or not start to stare, growl, bark, lunge etc.).
1. Try to keep your dog outside of trigger zone until you can work on socialization exercises.
2. If you do approach the trigger zone (dog alerts to other dog) DO NOT reinforce or create nervousness/ frustration by pulling back on the lead or tightening up on it -- THIS IS THE WORST THING YOU CAN DO! Also, do not grab or reassure your dog, as these actions only cause more problems!
3. To "counter-condition" in new behavior: As you approach the trigger zone:
a. Watch for the instant your dog alerts, and
b. Quickly redirect your dog to a new activity: "ready" eye contact, about-turn, food, sit, grab a toy.
c. Praise for participation in new activity.
d. Continue until your dog is anticipating the new activity, and is responding easily - then move closer to the dog/ person to establish a closer trigger zone (i.e., dog can get closer to object before getting upset). Repeat process.